Question on MM design

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RegularJoe
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by RegularJoe »

William, thanks for the very rapid response!

Whem you build a device do you always trim the end of the base stud off flush with the end of the collar (thereby minimizing the length of the stud)? I suspect the stud has to be longer on CD's than on your DLCR's just for cage stability and greater mass.
I'm not a gynecologist, but I'll take a very close look.
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locked4her55
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by locked4her55 »

Yes, Thanks William for responding. I'm sure you are aware of the issues out there and have developed many prototypes to try and address them.

Now, I'm guessing you are swamped with orders from Santa so get back to the workshop! :lol:
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Atone
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by Atone »

This biggest problem I see with this design is in making adjustments to the gap. I know most of us like having multiple rings for our devices, or just need an adjustment made. Sometimes they have different gaps as well. My understanding (and I am sure Bill will correct me if I am wrong) is that the way the gap is set is that the new ring with post is put in position in the cage and the hole is either drilled, or is marked and drilled. If you want to have a new ring made it would not be possible to do this to make the new holes in the sleeve part as you wouldn't be able to see where the existing hole in the post would be. You could make an adjustment to an existing ring but it would require welding a new post to the existing cage. This would then throw off the adjustment of any other rings that you might have.
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maturemetal
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by maturemetal »

RegularJoe wrote:William, thanks for the very rapid response!

Whem you build a device do you always trim the end of the base stud off flush with the end of the collar (thereby minimizing the length of the stud)? I suspect the stud has to be longer on CD's than on your DLCR's just for cage stability and greater mass.
That is correct I try to get the stud as short as possible on the locking cock rings.
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maturemetal
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by maturemetal »

Atone wrote:This biggest problem I see with this design is in making adjustments to the gap. I know most of us like having multiple rings for our devices, or just need an adjustment made. Sometimes they have different gaps as well. My understanding (and I am sure Bill will correct me if I am wrong) is that the way the gap is set is that the new ring with post is put in position in the cage and the hole is either drilled, or is marked and drilled. If you want to have a new ring made it would not be possible to do this to make the new holes in the sleeve part as you wouldn't be able to see where the existing hole in the post would be. You could make an adjustment to an existing ring but it would require welding a new post to the existing cage. This would then throw off the adjustment of any other rings that you might have.
That is an issue that I haven't even thought of. You are right is someone wanted multiple rings that would be a nightmare for me. It is different if you have jigs and machines doing most of the work but I have found that there are thousands of size variations in sizes you have to do most all of it by hand. With that said yes, it would be more challenging.
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Tom Allen
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by Tom Allen »

maturemetal wrote: That is an issue that I haven't even thought of. You are right is someone wanted multiple rings that would be a nightmare for me. It is different if you have jigs and machines doing most of the work but I have found that there are thousands of size variations in sizes you have to do most all of it by hand. With that said yes, it would be more challenging.
Hi William - Thanks for dropping in to answer this.

In my case, I'm thinking that once I settle on a gap/spacing size, I probably wouldn't want to change anything else.

But I just wanted to make sure that what I was asking isn't impossible. I guess I should probably try to sketch it out.
luminous
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by luminous »

I too share your concerns over both the post and also having a solid base ring. I'm not prepared to wear something that has a solid base ring :( Probably the only thing that is preventing me placing an order. It simply hurts my balls too much to get a ring which is small enough over them.

I have tried a CB2000 base ring and it was terrible. CB6000 are great base ring designs for me. I'd like something like this.
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Locked by LRC
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by Locked by LRC »

I don't know if he still does, but at one time MM had a multiple piece design base ring available. It never showed on his web site, you had to ask for it. Just Email him and ask.
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Atone
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by Atone »

luminous wrote:I'm not prepared to wear something that has a solid base ring :( Probably the only thing that is preventing me placing an order. It simply hurts my balls too much to get a ring which is small enough over them.
If your concern is only about getting it on then you might want to change your technique. I can (and have) put on a ring that is way smaller than what I could wear on an ongoing basis. And I wear a pretty small (39mm) ring full time. Here is what I do that works real well. I start by using just a small amount of hand lotion on my flaccid penis. Just enough that the skin won't stick to the steel ring but not enough that it is difficult keep hold of it. Then I put one ball through, then the other. If all the handling has caused things to get a little aroused a wait a minute before proceeding. Once everything is relaxed I kind of bend the penis and push the tip through the ring. I doesn't have to go in very far, just enough that I can then reach in to the ring from the front and grab the tip and pull it through. This is where the right amount of lotion is important. If it is too much you cannot get a good grip on the tip to pull it through. If it is too little the skin will stick to the stainless steal and it will either be impossible to pull through or it will hurt when you do.

Getting out of the ring is just as easy. Just push the penis back through the ring. Kind of bunch it up and push from the tip. Then pop one ball through, then the other. You do have to be totally flaccid (or nearly so) for this to work.

I found that early on both of these processes were difficult because I would get aroused and that would prevent the penis from going through easily. Now that it is 'normal' I don't have a problem with getting aroused every time I go to put on / take off the device.
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Locked by LRC
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Re: Question on MM design

Post by Locked by LRC »

Atone; I'm not sure if getting it on is his total problem. It sounds like he has the same problem I do. My balls are large enough that when I get a ring large enough to get my balls through, it always tends to droop down. I found the multiple-piece design of the CB worked better than a solid ring for a tighter fit.

When I was using the CB2000 I tried to go to the smaller ring to get the better fit. When I "popped" my second ball through the ring I thought I would pass out. Since I had it on I wore it this way for a few days with some teasing sessions from LRC. When I tried to take the ring off my balls had grown more. I couldn't get my first ball through it without feeling pain. Fortunately, it was plastic, so it came off with side cutters.

That's why I was glad when CB came out with the multi-piece base ring.
Current device - MM Custom
Previous devices - CB2000, 3000, 6000, 6000s, Curve