I have been doing some internet searches and have seen different grades of stainless and they each recommend a different way to bring a mirror type polish to them. I'm far from understanding all of this but a question for you Tom. With your reference to 316 grade is this what MM uses?Tom Allen wrote:... As it happens, 316 grade stainless is soft, with regard to scratching and nicking...
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Re: Dulled Finish
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Re: Dulled Finish
Stainless steels come in 2 main grades: Austenitic and Martenistic. Martenistic grades are often found in kitchen implements like knives or blades, because they can be hardened and honed. They can also discolor; this is why you sometimes see knives that look dull gray, or have stains. These grades are magnetic.
Austenitic grades are non-magnetic, and are more resistant to staining. 302, 304, 305, and 316 are the most common consumer use grades. Mature Metal uses 316 stainless, which is a fairly high purity grade often seen in medical equipment for its resistance to body acids. The Chinese devices sold use 304, which is almost as resistant, and for most of our purposes, is equivalent.
304 and 316 are both soft - they will dent and scratch easily. However, they can also be easily polished with soft cleansers, silver polish, jeweler's rouge, and some of the other things that we've mentioned in this thread.
Edit: It seems silly, but "stainless" steel actually does stain to some small degree; it doesn't rust, like iron or cheap steel alloys. Most kitchen stainless is a 300-series grade that is non-magnetic; however, I've seen some appliance now feature a magnetic stainless front panel. I'm guessing that they are a grade similar to 416 - the 400 series stainless steels can be hardened (like knives or food processor blades), and will retain a very slight grayish tint.
Austenitic grades are non-magnetic, and are more resistant to staining. 302, 304, 305, and 316 are the most common consumer use grades. Mature Metal uses 316 stainless, which is a fairly high purity grade often seen in medical equipment for its resistance to body acids. The Chinese devices sold use 304, which is almost as resistant, and for most of our purposes, is equivalent.
304 and 316 are both soft - they will dent and scratch easily. However, they can also be easily polished with soft cleansers, silver polish, jeweler's rouge, and some of the other things that we've mentioned in this thread.
Edit: It seems silly, but "stainless" steel actually does stain to some small degree; it doesn't rust, like iron or cheap steel alloys. Most kitchen stainless is a 300-series grade that is non-magnetic; however, I've seen some appliance now feature a magnetic stainless front panel. I'm guessing that they are a grade similar to 416 - the 400 series stainless steels can be hardened (like knives or food processor blades), and will retain a very slight grayish tint.
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Re: Dulled Finish
Thanks all. Off to the store to buy some supplies.
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Re: Dulled Finish
I have some SS cookware too, and have noticed a difference. Belgique is OK, Emeril is very good, Martha Stewart sucks- it actually gets rusty, it's also the thinnest and lightest of the group.Martenistic grades are often found in kitchen implements like knives or blades, because they can be hardened and honed. They can also discolor; this is why you sometimes see knives that look dull gray, or have stains. These grades are magnetic.
04/07/19 "And then I 'punished' you by making you lick my pussy after I let my other 'boy' fuck me." --Mrs. Twisted
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Re: Dulled Finish
Some 400 grades will stain in a way that looks like rust. It is supposed to stop once it has a minimal amount of surface penetration.TwistedMister wrote: I have some SS cookware too, and have noticed a difference. Belgique is OK, Emeril is very good, Martha Stewart sucks- it actually gets rusty, it's also the thinnest and lightest of the group.
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Metallurgy and chastity. Who knew? Should've taken more metallurgy classes... And some trade classes so I could weld the stuff. (I've wanted to learn welding since decades ago.)
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Re: Dulled Finish
I regret that I don't have any welding experience (expect some tack welding in a shop when I was a kid). I have little modifications that I would love to try on some off-the-shelf devices, but it doesn't make sense to attempt without a welder.jfenoffti wrote:Metallurgy and chastity. Who knew? Should've taken more metallurgy classes... And some trade classes so I could weld the stuff. (I've wanted to learn welding since decades ago.)
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Re: Dulled Finish
Update on getting the shine back.
While thinking about the discussions about polishers I remembered I had some cleaner that I use on brass. I read the label and it listed stainless steel as a metal okay to use on. I tried it and couldn't believe the black that came off on the cleaning rag. After about ten minutes of rubbing everything is back to being shiny.
For anyone who's interested the cleaner I used is called MAAS Polishing Cream.
While thinking about the discussions about polishers I remembered I had some cleaner that I use on brass. I read the label and it listed stainless steel as a metal okay to use on. I tried it and couldn't believe the black that came off on the cleaning rag. After about ten minutes of rubbing everything is back to being shiny.

For anyone who's interested the cleaner I used is called MAAS Polishing Cream.
Current device - MM Custom
Previous devices - CB2000, 3000, 6000, 6000s, Curve
Previous devices - CB2000, 3000, 6000, 6000s, Curve