Type of Weld on Stainless Devices

[smith75]

i have several stainless devices. None are perfect fits. The Millers orginal design was not the sturdiest BUT it allowed for a huge number of ring/gap/tube combinations. My old CB2000 rings with an old CB3000 tube were highly adjustable for ring/gap dimensions. This combo was less than ideal for hygiene and kept breaking. i fixed it more times than i can count and finally have moved on to steel. i need to get my steel devices modified to meet the dimensions that work so well. Doing this will require me to cut existing welds and make new welds - but i don't even know what kind of weld we are talking about for stainless.

I will need to reposition the part that goes into the locking section, and this will mean cutting the current "weld" and re-doing it in its new location (move of a little less than 1/4 inch to get the gap right).

Here is my question - WHAT TYPE OF WELD IS IT? Torch? Silver Solder? MIG? TIG ?
i have even considered trying PC-7 epoxy but I think a steel weld would be stronger and this connection has to stand up to torgue when i lay flat on my stomach in bed.

does anyone else have experience rewelding these devices ? OR .... does anyone have any suggestions on how to "re-attach" metal to metal after i detach an existing weld?

[Tom Allen]

Silver solder might be okay for components that won't get a lot of torque. However, I'd be concerned that it could discolor, and you certainly want to avoid it touching your skin.

Stainless steel weld wire in 18-8 grade (304, 305, 318, 318, etc) might be the safest bet. I can't opine on which weld process is better.

[focUSed]

I'd guess the interweb would be a better source of that kind of information than this forum would be. There are probably very few here who make their own custom devices. Or look up, and contact directly, one of the sellers of the material, again, prob best found on the web.

I have searched for sources of 316 stainless rod in 1/4 and 1/8 inch diameters, but don't have a welder, nor have done much welding...it was more of a 'I wonder how hard this stuff is to find' sort of search. Maybe someday, just not anytime soon.

[PeturKitty]

I would contact Mark at Malechastitynow. He has done some incredible work for me modifying my ergonomic Chinese base ring. Prices are very fair for the quality of custom work he does.

[Sparkster]

Stainless is very hard and difficult to weld. It requires an experience welder with TIG equipment. Most welders won't even fire up the TIG for less than $50.

[smith75]

Silver solder might be okay for components that won't get a lot of torque. However, I'd be concerned that it could discolor, and you certainly want to avoid it touching your skin.

Stainless steel weld wire in 18-8 grade (304, 305, 318, 318, etc) might be the safest bet. I can't opine on which weld process is better.

WHY IS IT A CONCERN TO HVE SILVER SOLDER TOUCHING MY SKIN?
IS IT DUE TO SOME LEAD ? OR SOMETHING ELSE ?
SILVER SOLDIER IS PROBOBLY THE MOST AVAILABLE OPTION

[Tom Allen]

Generally, silver solder contains: 65% fine silver. 20% copper. 15% zinc. There may also be traces of other metals in the allow to improve flow.

Copper and zinc are not approved for long term body contact. They will tarnish, and may cause irritation. Plus, a poor joint will leave burnt Flux which you may not be able to remove.

[Caged Lion]

I used to make silver (and gold) jewelry years ago. I made a lot of wedding rings out of silver sheet. I used jewelry-quality sterling silver solder to form the joints. People have worn those rings for decades. I have never heard of residual flux issues. Of course, I always polished my finished work. Generally, I had to blend the joint invisibly. There was never a chance of flux remaining. I wonder if silver solder is even viable on stainless. Of course, you could make a sterling silver chastity device

[focUSed]

Of course, you could make a sterling silver chastity device

New product line for Tiffany or Swarovski?!

[vantage38t]

the answer is 316 stainless steel mig weld with straight argon gas. or argon with 3 %. oxygen in the mix , and polish after welding. tig is good also.