Re: Type of Weld on Stainless Devices
Posted: Wed Oct 20, 2021 9:49 pm
Professional welder with 16 years of industrial/aerospace experience here.
The best process for a welded stainless ring repair is tig. For a 3/16" through 3/8" ring you will want to set your power supply at ~120 amps (assuming that you are using 1/16" tig wire) . Make sure that you are using a 2% tungsten (red band).Your shield gas should be straight argon at 30-35 cfh.
When you apply heat to stainless it lowers its corrosion and oxidization resistance so you will want to use a higher grade wire. Most base/ cock rings are made of 304 or 316 stainless so you will choose a 316 or 327 wire. I suggest 1/16".
Before you start welding you need to ensure that both ends of the ring are aligned. This may be more difficult than you expect. Depending on the amount of heat generated when it is cut apart, heat distortion may cause the metal to slightly deform. If this happens you can (depending on the severity/ angle of the distortion) secure it in a table vice and pry/bend it into the correct shape or use creative positioning of C clamps to hold it in place until you weld. Keep in mind that you will most likely have "kerf loss" of at least .035" from cutting it, so the ring will be slightly smaller if you have both ends together when you re-weld it.
The deeper into the ring the heat fuses the metal, the stronger the weld. For a chastity device you can absolutely weld it without beveling the ends but never take that chance on a ring that will be load bearing or critical for safety in any way.
The easiest technique for hobbyists and novices to use for a weld like this is called the "lay" method. You will lay your wire on the area that you want to fuse and just guide the torch over it. Once you see it melt either move the torch forward along the wire or stop. If you spend a second too long in one place on a 3/16" ring you will very possibly melt the base material completely and "blow out" the ring. Stop frequently. You do not want it glowing like the sun. Rings are a bit more forgiving than plate or sheet but heat distortion is possible. Do not quench (cool with liquid) the ring. Let the heat dissipate open air.
If the ring is distorted when you are finished you may be able to use a conical mandrel or a car exhaust expander to round it back out. It's a coin toss whether these will work, so don't get the ring too hot.
When you have fused the ring all the way around grind the cap off using an angle grinder and abrasive disc or a belt sander. It's easy to over do. Take it easy while doing this.
Hope this helps.
The best process for a welded stainless ring repair is tig. For a 3/16" through 3/8" ring you will want to set your power supply at ~120 amps (assuming that you are using 1/16" tig wire) . Make sure that you are using a 2% tungsten (red band).Your shield gas should be straight argon at 30-35 cfh.
When you apply heat to stainless it lowers its corrosion and oxidization resistance so you will want to use a higher grade wire. Most base/ cock rings are made of 304 or 316 stainless so you will choose a 316 or 327 wire. I suggest 1/16".
Before you start welding you need to ensure that both ends of the ring are aligned. This may be more difficult than you expect. Depending on the amount of heat generated when it is cut apart, heat distortion may cause the metal to slightly deform. If this happens you can (depending on the severity/ angle of the distortion) secure it in a table vice and pry/bend it into the correct shape or use creative positioning of C clamps to hold it in place until you weld. Keep in mind that you will most likely have "kerf loss" of at least .035" from cutting it, so the ring will be slightly smaller if you have both ends together when you re-weld it.
The deeper into the ring the heat fuses the metal, the stronger the weld. For a chastity device you can absolutely weld it without beveling the ends but never take that chance on a ring that will be load bearing or critical for safety in any way.
The easiest technique for hobbyists and novices to use for a weld like this is called the "lay" method. You will lay your wire on the area that you want to fuse and just guide the torch over it. Once you see it melt either move the torch forward along the wire or stop. If you spend a second too long in one place on a 3/16" ring you will very possibly melt the base material completely and "blow out" the ring. Stop frequently. You do not want it glowing like the sun. Rings are a bit more forgiving than plate or sheet but heat distortion is possible. Do not quench (cool with liquid) the ring. Let the heat dissipate open air.
If the ring is distorted when you are finished you may be able to use a conical mandrel or a car exhaust expander to round it back out. It's a coin toss whether these will work, so don't get the ring too hot.
When you have fused the ring all the way around grind the cap off using an angle grinder and abrasive disc or a belt sander. It's easy to over do. Take it easy while doing this.
Hope this helps.