slanador wrote:Would it make sense to ask the Tether company to do that polishing for us? After all, they wouldn't want corrosion issues, right?
My understanding is that the owner of Tether Products does not manufacture the items himself, he contracts that out. I also feel that he had a large batch done and is currently selling existing stock. At this time, the bore polishing of that stock would be work-intensive and would raise the prices significantly.
The TetherSpouts were not designed with chastity in mind but primarily as a way to play with one's member. In that context, corrosion that takes a few days to set in was not an important factor. For the moment, the existing spouts and retainers in 410/420 grade stainless steel are what is available, but if there is sufficient interest from the chastity community, I think he could be motivated to have items manufactured in more corrosion resistant (but not magnetic) 316 stainless steel, and include bore smoothing in his specifications (also, bores in 316 may turn out to have much less mill marks because it is softer than 420)...
slanador wrote:Does that Thermomorph also work with the plain spout? Or are the two holes on the side not sufficient for grip?
The side holes of a plain spout are sufficient for grip by a hard material such as metal wire, but Thermomorph (and equivalent brands of hand-malleable-while-warm plastics) is too soft for that purpose and it is not easy to shape that precisely. In particular, it is challenging to re-cut because it gives a bit and can also fuzz if the cutting blade is not razor sharp. I experienced some of that when I tapped the hole in the attachment in question (it was unsightly but not critical).
slanador wrote:My experience with all chastity devices so far is that it's extremely easy to pull out my tiny flaccid penis. Maybe in part because my balls hang quite low or something, and I'm a grower. So yeah, pulling out is extremely easy, even if I use one of those Chinese full belt designs that has a urethral tube. Can get out easily. With the HTv2 it really is a joke. I have the smallest version, but can easily pull the device away from my body and pull out my junk from the device. So I'm not sure if the Contender despite its great reviews is sufficiently secure unless I also install a TetherSpout
I think that people who believe that a device relying solely on penis and ball constriction has any chance of securely imprisoning a grower's penis must not understand that being a grower implies being a shrinker.
My Contender is by far my favorite device, but it is not secure against turtling without the TetherSpout.
slanador wrote:And I'm not a huge fan of padlocks on chastity cages, I really like those integrated security locks. If I read your page correctly, this is doable ("pass fully over the cage's locking sleeve and come to rest under the base ring's locking post") but just requires some force to pull the wire around the sleeve? My software engineer fingers have sufficient grip to do such things, methinks. Any new thoughts on that since you wrote that section?
The problem I had with those early wires was that there wasn't enough elasticity in the shape to allow for the bit of elongation needed to pass over the back of the sleeve.
I'm going to try making a wire with a different shape that will hopefully provide the needed amount of elasticity...
I have this
bender. It has a very convenient integrated vise jaw, but it only comes with pins for 1", 1/2". 1/4" and 13/64" diameter bends. I turned a bunch of additional ones for bends up to 1.5" in 0.1" increments, and I drilled some 1/2" rods to make small size pins out of old drill bits (3/16, 1/8, 3/32...). I also use a
small swivel vise and needle nose pliers.
An important tip: with the current 410/420 stainless steel spouts, you should use wire of equivalent galvanic potential to avoid
galvanic corrosion, because urine acts as an electrolyte. I bought my 410 grade wire in the form of
a pound of 1/16" TIG-welding rods (that's the smallest amount I could get, over 30 3' rods!)